DIY Paul

The concrete floor, as the basis for the flooring, is perfect, but the use of floor slabs is limited by the structural features of the building. In a wooden, panel or frame house, it is easier to lay the armored floors. If you do this correctly, such floors will not be concrete in anything, and for some qualities, they can surpass them. Here we will illuminate, the technology for the installation of pre -disagreed floors with your own hands. Properly selected lumber for the floor is the key to the quality and durability. Pine, larch, cedar – suitable wood for the floor, but from the use of birch, spruce, oak – it is better to refrain. The board should be trimmed, at least 40 mm thick. It is possible to use a dodgy board. It’s easier to work with it, but such a board costs an order of magnitude more expensive. To lay the floors, only a boat is suitable for a room-dry or air-dry humidity. Absolutely dry and wet board is strongly not recommended. The initial stage, of course, will be preparing the premises for work. All the trash and all the superfluous. After that, you need to measure the room and determine the floor level. This is done using the level and twine. Draw, chalk, along the wall level of the proposed floor. Using the same level, stretch the thread across the future lag. As a lag, we will use a beam with a thickness of at least 70-100 mm. In old-well, they often used lags from oak logs. You need to understand that the use of a log as a lag is fraught with an uneven flooring surface. And if our grandfathers and great -grandfathers, the floor of painted boards completely suited, today it is not relevant. Lags should be without curvature in the longitudinal and transverse plane. If such defects have a place to be, you need to, either align the beam with a circular saw, or choose another. Put lags, you can on wooden stumps or brick pillars. Preference should be given to a brick – so reliable. The number of supports must be calculated so that the interval between them is not more than two meters. Place for supports, you need to prepare as follows: the pit is rummaged to dense soil and poured with concrete with gravel. On this foundation, lay out the pillar in the brick thickness. To determine the desired height, we use a small section from the lag. The column with a cut should be a millimeter below the stretched thread. Two or three rows before the end of the pillar, tied with masonry a thick knitting wire. When the solution in the pillars dries, we proceed to the installation of the floor. We put the lags on the supports. Of course, they must correspond to the level. Deviations are leveled by lining of solid wood, which we undermine between the lag and the support. To the racks, the beam is fastened with knitting wire. Under the place where the wire is in contact with the tree, we put the metal plate. We tighten the lags “from the heart”. We will fix the boards to the lags with self -tapping screws. The hats of self-tapping screws, at the same time, should be drowned in a tree by 3-4 mm, so as not to “kill” the knives of the rubbish. We put the boards back to each other. To achieve the maximum density of the canvas, we use the old grandfather’s method. We press one edge of the board close to the neighboring board and fasten. We take a sharp, small ax, stick it with the tip of the blade into the lag and, using the butt like a lever, press the board to the canvas and twist. After the floor is ready, you must first level it with a shirt, and then go through a grinder. So that the floor does not rot, the space under it should be ventilated. Before installing the flooring, it is necessary to cover the pre -sized floor with waterproofing material. Subject to the installation technology, the floor will have to be repaired very soon.