Warm water floor with your own hands of the modern home interior has long been heated floors, the so -called water floors. If earlier such a floor was considered a luxury and a sign of the wealth of its owner, now the device of such a floor is available to almost everyone who wants to improve the comfort of their housing. True, at the expense of the usefulness of such a sex in a house or apartment, medicine does not give an unequivocal answer. Recent studies have shown that the heat coming from the floor violates the natural circulation of blood in the legs of the person and the organs of the pelvis. But there is no evidence of such harm from the water floor, so the heating floors are as in demand today as ten years ago. Three heating methods are used for a warm flooring: water, electric and infrared radiation. But electricity is now getting more expensive every day, so the floors with electro-infrared heating are not economical. The best option for a warm floor is a water floor in which the heating elements is a pipe laid in a screed with a hot water circulating through it. Is it possible to independently make such a floor in the house? Yes, of course, you can. But it must be borne in mind that the constructive feature of these floors is the mandatory presence of a cement screed, and not simple, but “floating”. This is the difficulty in preparing for the installation of the floor and the work itself. First you need to dismantle the old flooring to the floor slabs themselves. If the house is old and the floors in it are wooden, then the water floor is impossible. Only concrete ceilings are suitable. Before starting work, it is necessary to make a project of future sex. To do this, the equipped room should be placed on separate square or rectangular areas with an area of not more than 40 kV. meters. Along the perimeter of these sites, temperature seams will pass, compensating for the thermal expansion of concrete in the future. This is necessary to avoid concrete cracks when heating the floor. Compensation seam is a distance filled with elastic materials between two screeds or a wall and a site. In such a seam, only supplying or dropping pipes in a protective corrugated triber can be laid. A self -leveling solution is usually used to fill the screed, although a cement mortar usual for the reduction of work can be used. After filling the floors, you need a month so that cement acquires the desired strength. At the next stage, the base of the future floor is cleaned from garbage, after which the heat -insulating layer is laid. A snap tape is glued along the perimeter of the room, which will compensate for the expansion of the screed when heated. Pipes are laid out on a thermal insulation layer, which, after the connection, are attached to the floor with special brackets through the insulation. You can also attach pipes using self -tightening clamps to a specially laid on the insulation layer of the reinforcing mesh. Water pipes can be laid with a “snake”, a spiral, a double snake or a spiral with a displaced center, depending on the hot water supply scheme. For uniform heating of the floor, the pipe step should not exceed 30 cm. After fixing the pipes at the seams, compensation material is laid out. Before you start filling the screed, the heating system must be crimped by pressure, large by 1, 5 times than the pressure of the working pipes indicated on its case. The screed is poured at room temperature with an ordinary cement mortar or sand concrete M-300. In this case, the water system should be under a pressure of 2-2, 5 atm. The height of the cement screed over the pipes should be at least 5 cm. Когда стяжка полностью просохнет и станет прочной, а это займет около 28-30 дней, можно включать отопительную систему пола. Immediately heating at full power is not included, but increased to the maximum desired temperature gradually, within three days.
Warm water water with your own hands
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